DIVE RIGHT IN

The list of reasons to visit Byron Bay almost writes itself, from the continually refreshed hotel and culinary scenes to natural beauty around every twist and bend in the road. Yet there’s one side of Byron that doesn’t get nearly enough time in the spotlight: the marine biodiversity – and it can vary dramatically from one season to the next.

WRITTEN BY CHRIS ASHTON

I’ll never forget my first scuba dive. Descending into the blue off Byron Bay, it was everything my childhood dreams hoped it would be: dazzling corals, a kaleidoscope of fish big and small, and even a trio of eagle rays gliding through my bubbles overhead. At the time, I thought all dive sites must be like that, but it wasn’t until later I realised just how special Byron is.

The town’s primary dive site is Nguthungulli Julian Rocks nature reserve, in the Cape Byron Marine Park. A mere 2.5kms offshore, it exists in a rare ‘Goldilocks’ location where the waters are not too hot, not too cold. As a result, it plays host to an incredible mix of sea life.

“We’re at the meeting of two currents”, explains Dr David Robinson, marine ecologist and co-owner of Sundive Byron Bay. “The tropical from the north and temperate current from the south, which creates very high productivity and in turn leads to great biodiversity.”

“Being at the most easterly point of Australia, we get the larger animals that you’d expect to see at an oceanic pinnacle, without the 24 hours of travel by liveaboard often needed to see them”, Robinson adds. “Here, it’s less than 10 minutes by boat from the beach.”

Seasonality has a huge impact on the experience as well. In the warmer months, for example, the world’s largest population of leopard sharks aggregate at the rocks in vast numbers – up to 50 at one time. During the colder months, they tag-team with critically endangered grey nurse sharks, and if you time your visit right, you can see both in a single dive.

Neither species is considered aggressive, which makes for an extraordinary thrill as you backwards roll into the water, descend the mooring line and then spend the next 45+ minutes (depending on your air consumption) marvelling at their powerful presence.

Starting from June, humpback whales also can be seen passing by on their annual migration north, followed by the return journey south with their young calves in tow until November.

When Sundive’s owners David Robinson and Simone Caprodossi first visited the rocks, they were blown away by what they saw – but it was the leopard sharks that really won them over.

Since taking over the long-running dive operation, the passionate duo have devoted their time to studying and protecting these and other rare species that inhabit the reserve, and inviting others to get involved. In 2018, they launched the Cape Byron Leopard Shark Project, leveraging the power of citizen science. They’ve now identified more than 500 individuals.

“We’re asking questions like: ‘What do they do, where do they go?’” Robinson explains, with an undeniable hint of excitement in his voice. “By collecting the spot pattern of the sharks, which is like a fingerprint unique to each individual, we can then work with other dive centres and scientists up and down the coast as they see a shark.”

Sundive is also involved with Project Manta, which is a collaborative research project devoted to the study of manta rays, and the Shark Spotter Project that focuses on grey nurse sharks.

Though very different, if you were to compare the Great Barrier Reef to Nguthungulli Julian Rocks, what helps the latter stand tall is its high concentration and diversity of species.

“The Great Barrier Reef is fantastic in terms of coral diversity – though all tropical species. You don’t get temperate and tropical mixing like you do here, meaning less diversity. Also, the Great Barrier Reef is huge, so finding animals that don’t aggregate is quite difficult. You could spend a lot of time in the Great Barrier Reef and might see a couple of turtles. Here, we’ve got three species of turtle that you see year-round and probably on every single dive.”

For Robinson, not to mention the host of divers and snorkellers already in the know, Byron Bay is a town that offers more than first glances will reveal. Linger longer, dive a little deeper and you’ll be amazed at the depth and diversity of what you’ll discover.

Sundive operates daily scuba diving and snorkelling tours, plus recreational and professional courses, and is one of two dive companies in town, alongside Byron Bay Dive Centre.

Winter season: May to December

Summer season: December to May

sundive.com.au