ESCAPE TO UKI

There’re quite a few quirky villages in the gorgeous Northern Rivers hinterland, but Uki ‘the village in the clouds’ is one of its most colourful. Ringed by rainforest and snuggled in the foothills of Wollumbin, it makes a popular day trip from Byron and the Gold Coast, as well as a wonderful weekend escape.

WRITTEN BY ALISON BONE

Image: Sally Singh Creative

“BLINK AND YOU WILL MISS IT, UKI MAY BE A SMALL VILLAGE, BUT IT HAS A BIG HEART.”

Gary Wall, founder Bastion Lane Espresso

An iconic landmark across the Tweed and Byron Shires, Wollumbin (Mount Warning,) looms ever closer as you approach the village of Uki. Fluffy white clouds are often seen swirling around its summit, gives credence to its Bundjalung name, commonly translated as ‘cloud catcher.’ A sacred place for the Bundjalung people, some tribes say the name actually means ‘fighting chief of the mountain,’ as the thunder and lightning seen on the mountain top was believed to came from warring warriors. No matter the meaning, there is no denying that this mountain–the plug of what was one of the world’s largest shield volcanos, active 20 million years ago–has mana.

In more recent times the tiny heritage-listed village of Uki, set in the shadow of the mountain, was born on the back of the timber and dairy trades in the early 1900s, and retains a lovely streetscape lined with charming historic buildings. Its proximity to Nimbin–site of the legendary Aquarius festival in 1973–brought a new wave of settlers and an alternative, more artistic way of life, which gives Uki much of its modern-day flavour. Follow the waft of incense to Happy Herb Shop for health tonics and tinctures, mood enhancers, elixirs and aphrodisiacs. And check out The Uki Fair Trade Shoppe with its handcrafted treasures, Illusive Wood Designs with its hand carved furniture and A Tinker’s Cuss, for hand forged knives.

The Buttery which operated until the 1960s, and still has the churner out front, sets the scene for the much-loved Uki Buttery Bazaar (3rd Sunday of the month) with live bands, local artisanal products and handicrafts. At the back of the Buttery you will find Uki Pies–reason enough to come to Uki, as the baker here has a way with pastry that is tempting to describe as magical. Make sure to try the Spinach, Feta and Olive Quiche, Apple Turnovers and chocolate topped Anzac Slice.

Bastion Lane Espresso

Street buskers provide the soundtrack to Uki, intermingled with piano music– there’s two pianos, along with sofas in the open-sided hut in the Village Green, and everyone is welcome to play. There’s a ping pong table too, and always locals about to chat with. Uki is like that, it has an anything goes kind of vibe and a convivial atmosphere highly conducive to just hanging out.

“Blink and you will miss it, Uki may be a small village, but it has a big heart,” says Postmaster Gary Wall. Taking over the dilapidated post office in 2017, he had a vision to transform the 1909 building into a diverse space that enriched the local community. He has done so spectacularly, and the restored post office now doubles as a buzzing cafe, Bastion Lane Espresso, with its own brand of coffee roasted on site. It’s an art space too, with monthly exhibitions showcasing local artists.

Wollumbin National Park

Just out of town, Mount Warning Road climbs steadily up the side of the mountain passing lush, pristine scenery and ever denser rainforest. Stop for a swim at the water hole or continue to the Breakfast Creek Carpark on the edge of Wollumbin National Park. While the summit track was closed in 2022, you can still access the Lyrebird track, a short but exhilarating walk that winds through picturesque palm forest to a viewing platform.

Other nearby world heritage-listed national parks include Mebbin National Park, Nightcap National Park, Border Ranges National Park, and Mt. Jerusalem National Park, all with epic bush trails and sensational views.

WHERE TO STAY

CAMPING

Surrounded by soaring trees and sub-tropical rainforest at the foot of Wollumbin, Mount Warning Rainforest Park is a fantastic place to reconnect with nature. mtwarningrainforestpark.com

GLAMPING

With a very private setting in the peaceful forest of nearby Mount Burrell, Silk Pavilions offer luxurious safari tents, each with verandah and clawfoot bathtub. silkpavilions.au

SELF-CONTAINED LODGE

Utterly unique, Wollumbin Palms Rainforest Retreat has 65 acres of forest, and lodgings that include a timber Mongolian yurt and a Javanese prayer house, each with private spa bath, fireplace and kitchenette. wollumbinpalms.com

BED AND BREAKFAST

A View of Mt Warning Bed and Breakfast has a swimming pool and bright rooms with private veranda and valley views. viewofmtwarning.com.au

CABIN

Mavis Kitchen and Cabins offers atmospheric eco-friendly cabins in a heavenly setting, with a bonus of sensational food served up in the restaurant. maviseskitchen.com.au

WELLNESS RETREAT

Sprawled across 100 acres, Ecoasis Wellness Sanctuary has double story chalets, and offers massage, acupuncture, yoga and meditation classes. ecoasis.com.au

LUXURY VILLA

Located in nearby Stokers Siding, La Rochér Eco Retreat offers four luxury villas each with dreamy views, double sided fireplaces and hot tub. Plus, there’s an infinity edge swimming pool. larocher.com